Review: Hotel Bellinzona's lamb shoulder is something glorious
| Address | 77 Main Street View map | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Opening hours | Dining Room: dinner, every night; The Virgin: all day menu Saturday-Sunday and holidays | ||
| Feature | Accept bookings, Licensed, Accommodation | ||
| Price | Expensive (electricity over $40) | ||
| Payment | eftpos, Visa, Mastercard | ||
| Phone | 03 5348 2271 | ||
As I sit writing this review, the rich aroma of lamb stew permeates my entire home. It’s the final treat of a night spent at the Bellinzona Hotel in Hepburn Springs, where lamb for two ($95) can easily feed four or five people. As a result, we were able to bring home more than half of the lamb shoulder that fell off the bone, put it in a pot with broth and white beans and a can of delicious tomatoes, and continue to enjoy the heart-warming goodness. our food for days afterward.
At this time of year, everything about Bellinzona is warm. The historic 119-year-old hotel, not far from the city’s famous baths, has undergone a major renovation in recent years, reviving its 43-room accommodation as well as its two restaurants: The Virgin, which is a breakfast and lunch cafe, and The Oxford Dining. Room, which is now known as The Dining Room.
As you enter the hotel, the spacious lobby is filled with inviting leather chairs and sofas. The logs are burned in the open fireplace and the lobby bar serves cocktails and more. It’s a dream about a place, a cozy winter escape fantasy. And perhaps best of all, apart from the lavish outfits, this hotel still feels like a hotel in the Australian region rather than a replica of beautiful city life.
Lamb shoulder with almond sauce, anchovies, parmesan and pine nuts. Photo: Bonnie Savage
I was touched, of all things, by the checkered carpet that stretches across the property – a stylish choice that feels very fitting for a country pub.
The property was bought by Tony DeMarco and Theresa Albioli in 2019, and the couple brought in Theresa’s son, Julian Albioli, to help run it. Julian had trained at MoVida before moving to New York, where he worked for many years. After six months of renovations, multiple lockdowns thwarted opening plans, but the hotel launched late last year, and The Dining Room opens this June with Julian Albioli, manager Tim Foster, and a dedicated kitchen team collaborating on the menu.
This 60-seat restaurant features Belle Epoque opulence, all gilded mirrors and nude sculptures (there’s so much bust-related art on this property that it’s practically a theme). It’s pretentious enough to feel worthy of a special occasion, but the atmosphere and style of service is relaxed enough to make almost anyone feel comfortable.
Kingfish individual servings. Photo: Bonnie Savage
The kitchen team has the perfect cooking style for the place, sitting safely between creativity and comfort. The menu has a choice of bite-sized entrees, such as a thick slice of raw kingfish ($5) – firm and sweet and buttery – served with fennel, orange and pepperberry, or croquettes ($10 for 2) made with mushrooms and smoked scamorza cheese, and served with leaves. gray onion aioli.
The kingfish collar ($23) is salted, grilled – making it meaty and tender – and topped with a salsa verde packed with herby plant goodness.
Morcilla ($19), here is served as a thoroughly seasoned black pudding, topped with a cool, tangy gribiche sauce and horseradish salad for freshness and freshness.
Kingfish collar covered in salsa verde. Photo: Bonnie Savage
Main courses tend to be warm and rich, especially at this time of year. Duck breast ($48) comes with sweet potato and pickled pine mushrooms – a study of pinks and oranges and reds – while pork belly ($42) has a slightly Germanic feel, with celeriac puree, charred cabbage and cider gastrique.
The lamb shoulder, however, is something of a laurel, served over a creamy almond sauce and topped with anchovies, parmesan and pine nuts that make the meat beautifully juicy. This is a dish worthy of a winter feast, to be washed down with a bucket of wine and cheer.
Speaking of wines, the list is approachable and varied, and the competent staff know it from the start.
Morcilla with gribiche dressing and radish salad. Photo: Bonnie Savage
I often worry about the Australian region and the changes that are bound to happen in these small towns. What will the change be like? Will every hotel feel like Melbourne, every cafe like a piece of Fitzroy? (Seeing the boutiques in Daylesford might give you that impression.) This part of the state has long been a destination for wealthy Melburnians, so it’s not a gentrification I’m concerned about as the area has lost its inherent and unique charm in favor of something more global. and trendy.
The Dining Room at Hotel Bellinzona is a beautiful example of the middle ground – a place that has been sufficiently modernized without losing its integral appeal. If winter is getting you down, I suggest traveling this way to remind you of the restorative power of hearty country food in a beautiful, historic room.
Atmosphere: Magnificent old hotel with extra bust art
Main dish: Lamb shoulder for two ($95, photo)
Drink: Classic cocktails, great wine list?
Cost: Around $150 for two, not including drinks
https://bellinzona.com.au/dining-at-bellinzona-daylesford/
#Review #Hotel #Bellinzonas #lamb #shoulder #glorious
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